An Albanian Village Near Odessa? Yes!
An Irish photographer, traveling around Ukraine,
chronicles its people and history
Maria Bitova was born in the village of Zhovtneve, located in the Bolhrad district of Odessa region – a unique place in Ukraine, primarily populated by people of Albanian descent. In 2016, after the start of decommunization, the village was renamed Karakurt. Irish photographer Bradley Stafford traveled to Karakurt in order to meet Maria and document life in this multicultural place – and now shares his experiences with Zaborona.
Karakurt is an Albanian village located in Ukrainian Bessarabia, an ethnically diverse region in southern Ukraine. Locals here are very proud of their Albanian roots. In addition to Albanians, the area is host to people of Bulgarian, Moldovan, and Gagauz descent – most of whose ancestors had moved to the Greater Bessarabia region during the Russian-Turkish war at the end of the 18th century.
Maria Bitova studied library science in Chisinau, the Moldovan capital, returned to Karakurt after graduation, and started a family. She’s now a village librarian and explains that this is a very meaningful role for the community. Together with her colleagues and teachers from nearby schools, they organize events for young students in the village, in order to teach them about their history and to pass on the traditions of their families. Maria is also actively learning about the history of the area, and is doing all she can to document the life and stories of the village.
In front of the Karakurt House of Culture stands a monument to Albanian noble and military leader Gjergj Kastrioti Skënderbeu, also known as Skanderbeg. This man is considered to be an icon of Albania, a national treasure of the Balkan country, which defended its land for thirty years against the encroaching Ottoman empire.
A Bulgarian flag has been drawn on the walls of a house in the neighboring town of Bolhrad. Bolhrad is home to many Bessarabian Bulgarians.
The phrase “My native land – my history is alive” hangs on a wall in Maria Bitova’s library. She explains that children from neighboring schools come to this library to learn more about their original homelands and his current home in Bessarabia.
Flags of nations representing the homelands of people who live in the village have been depicted in this drawing of a flower: Bulgaria, Albania, and Gagauzia (a semi-autonomous region of Moldova, home to an Orthodox Christian Turkic peoples.) A lone Albanian flag rests on a shelf under the drawing, and a black two-headed eagle – the symbol of Albania – can be seen on a small homemade drum at the top.
These are the traditional dresses of the three most common nationalities in the village. From the left – a young woman dressed in traditional Albanian wear, center – a young woman in traditional Bulgarian dress, and right – a young woman wearing a traditional Gagauz outfit. Ukraine is symbolized via the gift of bread.
More pictures from village celebrations. The village embodies the diversities of the cultures of local residents, because they serve as a bright example in a world still fighting against the hate and violence caused by ethnic tensions. Maria Bitova smiles and says, “That’s why Karakurt is special. I couldn’t not be proud of our village.”
The Karakurt Museum. The walls are covered with the art and tapestries of Bessarabia. Along the central aisle, shelves are filled with old tools that were once used in agriculture. On the other shelf near the window sits an impressive collection of old radio equipment, stereo systems, turntables, and musical instruments.
Its ceiling is covered with exquisite ornaments dating back to the already bygone Soviet era. The villagers gather here for performances, concerts, comedy performances, and other celebrations.
I walk along the streets of the village in order to gain a deeper understanding of local life here. Karakurt is an oasis of calm and tranquility. Life here moves slowly. I circle the village clockwise, stopping several times along the way, before returning to the House of Culture.
Near the House of Culture. Maria (center) and her colleagues – Anna (left), the House of Culture’s director, and Valentina (right), a technician. They help Maria with the daily maintenance of the building and with event organization and planning.
